Inappropriate Urination in Cats
The best way to solve the problem is to understand the underlying causes for this behavior and to eliminate them. There really are two distinct behaviors: urine spraying / marking, where small volumes of urine are deposited on a vertical surface such as wall or drape (or less frequently on a horizontal surface such as clothing, bedding, new objects) to mark territory, and inappropriate urination where puddles are found on horizontal surfaces such as floors, bathtubs and sinks, or elsewhere.
The first step in dealing with any problem is to rule out an underlying medical condition. Some things your veterinarian will consider are bladder or kidney problems, diabetes, arthritis, senility and others. Consult with your veterinarian immediately. The sooner you seek advice, the better the prognosis for control regardless of the cause. The longer these misbehaviors occur, the less likely they can be reversed.
Remember, this misbehavior is not a spite issue! Kitty may have a medical problem.
The veterinarian will take a thorough history, perform a complete physical examination, run a blood screen to check for system problems such as kidney dysfunction, hyperthyroidism, Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) and Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) infections, and perform a urinalysis to check for bladder infection, stones, or sugar in the urine. In many cases, imaging studies may also be recommended.
To help you understand how each type of elimination problem occurs, note that territorial marking or spraying is generally performed by the cat standing and spraying a stream of urine on a drape, bed cover, clothing pile, door frame, window frame or wall, while the tail shakes quickly. This is a normal behavior for cats which serves to mark their territory. The prevalence of spraying in single cat households is less than 25%, whereas in households with 10 or more cats the incidence increases to 100%. Inappropriate urination on the other hand involves Kitty taking up a normal squatting position, but not in the litter box. The cat may urinate just outside the box, on the carpet in the living room, in the bathtub—the list is endless.
Location or Substrate Aversions
These may develop rapidly, or over an extended period of time. If the cat is startled for any reason while using the litter box, an aversion to the location or type of box may occur.
- Placing the box next to noisy machinery such as the washer / dryer, near items with alarms / timers, or near loud speakers that may startle kitty while in the box may lead to a location dislike (aversion).
- Cats do not like to go to the bathroom next to where they eat or drink. Natural instincts dictate this is not healthy, so having bathroom and food too close together may deter kitty from using her bathroom (location aversion).
- Cats prefer privacy. Placing the litter box in a busy location may cause kitty to avoid the area, again leading to location aversion.
- If the cat has been abused while using the box this may lead to aversion to that location. For example, a dog or child harassing Kitty while she is in the box may set negative feelings about the box area. Another situation is where a more dominant cat ambushes the meeker cat while in the vulnerable position of trying to use the box. Another bad experience for kitty may be the owner capturing her in the box in order to administer some unpleasant medication. (It is also important not to grab a cat urinating outside the box, then punish her and shove her into the box. This will tend to reinforce aversion to the boxlocation).
- Some cats, especially large ones, may not like covered boxes because it may prevent them from getting into a comfortable position to eliminate, or the cover prevents them from being able to scratch around in the litter to their satisfaction. Covered boxes are preferred by some cats because they allow for extra privacy. Less of the odors escape into the environment, but that means that it is more concentrated in the box which may repulse Kitty. Frequent cleaning is necessary if this type of box is used, otherwise location aversion may occur.
A version to the type of litter in the box may also occur.
- Cats don’t want to use a dirty box. It is repulsive to them to have to enter a non-clean space. If they step in a box and get urine or feces on their paws, they may not want to go back. Remember cats are fanatic about being clean! Cats are also very sensitive to the smell of other cats and will steer clear of the excrement of any other cat. If one cat is sick or on medications, this may change the odor of their excrement, and the other cats may be especially keen to avoid the box.
Note: Some bossy cats may urinate in a box where other cats have gone in order to cover the previous cat’s odor! - Some cats will develop an aversion to a particular litter after suffering from a painful bout of cystitis (bladder inflammation/infection), or lower urinary tract disease such as a blocked urethra while using that litter. This may also happen when diarrhea, anal sac problems, or constipation has occurred while using that particular litter for the same reason. Basically, if Kitty is uncomfortable in the box, an aversion can develop.
- Cats often dislike strong odors, especially citrus. Do not use strong smelling disinfectants which leave residual odors. Also many cats dislike or are allergic to the deodorant in litters and do not appreciate strong smelling cedar chips.
- Some owners notice an aversion after baking soda has been added to the litter to reduce the odor. When the cat urinates on the baking soda, it fizzes and this sound, or the smell of the escaping gas may be displeasing.
- Generally large gravel size is less appealing to cats. The fine grained unscented clumping litters and fine grained sands are usually the most appealing. Some lumber yards carry play sand for sandboxes, and this can be purchased in bulk for a good price.
- Some cats do not like the plastic tray liners. They may get their nails caught, or dislike the texture / smell.
How do you know if kitty is starting to develop an aversion? Possible cues are: eliminating just outside the box, not wanting to be in the box. Scratching outside the box but not inside may indicate their wish not to enter the box. If your cat is perched precariously on the edge of the box, not wanting to touch a thing and leaps out as soon as finished, you can probably interpret those cues as not wanting to touch what is in there.
Note: Many cats do not cover their feces of urine. This is not an abnormal behavior. In the wild many cats leave their excrement out in the open in order to mark their territory.
Location or Substrate Preferences
- Some cats develop preferences for rugs after the owner has placed a rug in front of the cat box to catch the litter. The cat scratches the rug like the litter in the act of covering, and may develop a preference for the softer feel of the rug (even over a clean box!).
- Kitty may find a nice quiet spot (basement?) where the bathroom activities can be done without the bother of children, noise, dogs, or other cats. Or perhaps this is a place where a previous cat has soiled, which can stimulate him to go there too.
Strategies for Dealing with Urinations Outside the Box : If there is no medical problem, other factors need to be addressed.
Add More Boxes
The general rule of thumb for the number of litter boxes is one box per cat, plus an extra box. Translated, this means one cat should have two litter boxes, two cats should have three boxes, and so forth. If there is space to provide two boxes per cat, that is even better.
Many aversions/preferences develop when the litter box is extremely dirty and Kitty seeks elsewhere to eliminate such as bedding, rugs, carpet, newspapers, etc. In the process Kitty may learn to prefer the softer material and chose it over even a clean box, so keep the litter box clean to help Kitty stay focused on the box as the preferred location for bathroom.
While treating an inappropriate elimination problem, it may be necessary to isolate the cat in a small room where no previous soiling has occurred. Provide Kitty with plenty of toys, love and attention in this room. Let her out only when 100% supervision is provided. You may place a bell on her collar to monitor where she is at all times. The amount of time she is isolated is proportional to the length of the inappropriate behavior, anywhere from 1-4 weeks is usually sufficient.
If you are using a clumping litter, use anywhere from 2-4 inches of litter, depending on your cat’s preference for depth. Use a scoop with slots to retrieve the clumped material. Scoop frequently because the clumps will break down with agitation and will be harder to remove. If the waste products are removed regularly, the box will probably only need to be washed every week.
Cleaning the box
Do not use ammonia based cleansers as these have the same type of odor as old urine. It is also best to avoid heavily scented cleaners. A bland soap such as Ivory soap is used to scrub the box, then a dilute solution of bleach ( 1 part bleach to 20 parts water) is left to soak 4 minutes, then thoroughly rinse and dry. Bleach is one of the best disinfectants around and is inexpensive. Bleach kills bacteria, viruses and fungi. Just be sure to rinse well because remember that whatever Kitty gets on her paws is going to go in her mouth because of her grooming habits, and bleach is a poison.
Use a specifically designated spoon or scoop to remove the soiled litter. The important item to remove is the urine because this is what causes most of the odor. Ideally, with coarse litters such as clay, use only a small amount of this type of litter so you can get to the bottom of the box and remove all of it. If it is allowed to remain underneath it will cause an odor. Cats have a much keener sense of smell than we do. If you can smell it, it is likely blowing her away! Replace small amounts of litter as needed. If you are able to remove all soiled areas, then the box will probably only require washing every week. If Kitty prefers a deeper litter to dig in, try using the clumping litters. If Kitty prefers deeper coarse non-clumping litters the box should be washed at minimum every other day as you probably will have urine accumulation in the bottom of the box.
It is often difficult to distinguish between location and substrate aversions.
If Kitty’s box location seems ideal, try offering a variety of different types of litters at different depths. If Kitty resumes using the box in the same location with a different material then you will know she just needed a litter change. If she had a bad experience with one type of litter in the box, change to a different textured litter first. There are also litters made out of recycled newspaper that some cats prefer. Cats with long fine hair (i.e. Persians) seem to be more particular about their litter!
One can also try to change location, use different types of boxes such as shallow, deep, wide open, covered, or partially covered.
If you have a dominant cat and a meek cat, the latter may develop a location preference for the back of your closet! This kitty will require safe privacy. Perhaps offer a screen or a covered box. You may need to place a box in a closet. The aggressor may stalk Kitty and corner her in the closet though. Sometimes placing a bell on the aggressor’s collar will alert Kitty that bully is near. Always remember to use breakaway collars on cats. For stubborn cases of stalking, there are also electronic eye devices which can be used which allow only the cat wearing the proper collar to be recognized and allowed into an area.
To reduce litter tracking problems around the house, many owners place a rug around the box, but a rougher surface is best. Kitty may learn to prefer the softer surrounding rug compared with the fine grained litter, so try not to tempt him with rug textures. The plastic doormats or ones that are crisscrossed provide excellent cleaning. If Kitty does not like to cross these to get to the box, try a straw or sisal mat.
If Kitty is exhibiting a definite location preference and continually urinates in a particular location, there are several ways to solve this problem. First you must thoroughly clean the soiled area. You may then need to place something over the preferred area, such as furniture, or maybe her food and water bowels since many cats do not want to eliminate where they eat. If Kitty comes back and urinates next to the obstacles, try placing a litter box in the area where she is eliminating. If she uses the box, don’t make the mistake of moving it immediately. Leave the box in the exact position for 1-2 weeks (depending on the length of time the inappropriate behavior has been occurring). Then begin to gradually move the box an inch per day to a more appropriate spot. It may seem like a small distance to you but Kitty perceives it as much more. If Kitty urinates next to the box, go back a bit.
If you need to have the box put out of the way for a special occasion, then lock Kitty in a room in which no inappropriate elimination has previously occurred. Supply her with her favorite box and litter, plenty of toys, food, water and love. When guests have gone, Kitty may be released and the box replaced in the original position.
Punishment is not an effective solution . If Kitty is caught in the act and physically punished and then placed in the litter box, a more powerful aversion is likely to ensue (to you and the box). The only acceptable type of correction would be to startle Kitty when she is about to perform the act. Either a whistle or water spray bottle set on stream may be employed at the beginning of the behavior, i.e. when she is sniffing or scratching, but not during the behavior (squatting and urinating) because it is then too late to have the desired effect.
Whereas punishment is not effective in cats, rewards are sometimes helpful. When Kitty exhibits the appropriate behaviors, reward her with treats and praise.
If the location of the misdeeds is in a specific room, restrict access to that room unless supervised. Remember one basic rule of feline behavior. Cats can’t be trained to use the litter box—they choose to prefer the litter box!
If Kitty is choosing a potted plant for urination, there are several steps to stop this behavior. First, make the plant unappealing. Place wire mesh or aluminum foil over the soil. Sometimes large stones are effective as well. In addition you may need to use some potting soil in the litter box to get Kitty to use the box again. Gradually start replacing the soil with the preferred litter. If Kitty urinates next to the plant or still attempts to use the plant, then place the box next to the plant. Then follow the protocol of slowly moving the box to a more appropriate location. If all else fails, move the plant to a room closed off to the cat!
Marking Behaviors
Spraying on vertical surfaces is by far the most common form of this type of problem, but cats may also urinate or defecate on a horizontal surface to mark their territory. There may be a genetic predisposition to this activity. Suspect a marking behavior if there has been any change in Kitty’s social environment. For example, a new pet introduced to the household, a new baby, or another person such as a new date or spouse who detracts from Kitty’s attention. Cats often will urine mark when they are insecure about their environment! Tomcats should be neutered promptly if they start marking because the surgical procedure is over 90% effective in resolving the problem.
Cats use their sense of smell as a major form of communication. Their sense of smell is far more developed than humans (about a thousand times more sensitive). Intact males and females in heat will often urine mark as part of their natural reproductive behavior. This is another reason why it is extremely important to neuter all cats not specifically meant for breeding purposes. Mostly this urine marking is a social issue; it is the cat’s way of communicating its presence. A dominant bold cat may spray to mark his territory or threaten another cat, whereas a timid defensive feline may spray or urine mark in response to an aggressive cat, or to try and mark a small territory for himself. The important point to remember is that it is not just the big confident Tom who is spraying to mark his territory. The passive threatened cat also has a high propensity to spray or urine mark if he/she feels threatened.
Often cats spray or urine mark in front of a window when they can see other cats in the neighborhood. They fell threatened because they can see another cat getting too close for comfort, but are unable to go out and challenge them. They may spray on the window or by a door. To deal with this problem, try to block the cat’s view of the intruder(s). A border along the bottom of the window is often effective. Thoroughly clean all soiled areas. One may elect to remove any bird feeders or other attractants which may bring outdoor cats near your home.
Remember, the more cats present in a household, the more likely there will be social conflict, and urine marking. If possible, reduce the number of cats in the household. Separating indoor cats is helpful for control of territorial marking. Provide each cat a separate room with plenty of toys, food, and of course an appropriate litter box. The cats may be allowed out together only when supervised. Using different toned bells on the cats will help you to know where they are at all times. Sometimes cats will get used to each other if they are not forced to always live in close proximity, and you may wish to provide treats to them when they coexist peacefully. A good bonding behavior for cats is grooming each other. Occasionally, if cats are grooming themselves side-by-side in close proximity, they may begin to groom each other. To facilitate the desire to groom, you can try wiping them down with a damp cloth. This will cause them to groom themselves and they may even begin to groom each other.
Feliway ® is a product which you spray in the environment. It is an artificial feline facial pheromone product and helps to impart a “good feeling” to cats. It needs to be sprayed twice daily around prominent areas of the house, and at nose level for your cat. It can be very effective at reducing spraying.
Often times, these social hierarchies are difficult to overcome and the longer the inappropriate behaviors continue, the more difficult they are to control. But don’t despair. Your veterinarian is equipped with several pharmacological and training therapies which may greatly help the situation, and have few side effects. There have been important advances in behavioral pharmacology and behavioral modification which make for safer and easier treatment.!
Disclaimer: This website is not intended to replace professional consultation, diagnosis, or treatment by a licensed veterinarian. If you require any veterinary related advice, contact your veterinarian promptly. Information at Cathealth.com is exclusively of a general reference nature. Do not disregard veterinary advice or delay treatment as a result of accessing information at this site.
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