Hot and Cold Cats: Heat Stroke and Hypothermia

If you live in Alaska , you are likely more concerned about cold, and if you reside in Florida , perhaps think you need to worry more about the heat! In reality, chilling or overheating of pets can occur just about anywhere!

BRRR…

“Cool cats” is just a saying, and should never be a real life problem for Kitty! When a cat is let outdoors, or lives in a drafty moist barn or shed in the Northern winter, whole body chilling (hypothermia) and frostbite can sometimes occur. Cats are pretty well protected against the cold because of their excellent coat, but some breeds are better endowed with protection that others. The Siberian Forest and Norwegian Forest cats evolved in the far north of Europe , and these large cats carry an outstanding water-repellant fur coat, as do the Maine Coon cats that from the northeastern USA , that were historically left outside and thus adapted to the cold. The Devon and Cornish Rex, Sphinx cat, and other lightly coated cat breeds are not so lucky. A typical domestic longhair or shorthair cat is pretty hardy, but in reality, is still subject to sub-zero cold, though hypothermia is less commonly seen at the veterinary clinic than hyperthermia (heat stroke).

Prevention is just common sense—one should keep cats indoors or in a heated building during severe cold weather. If you look after feral or barn cats, provide a well bedded shelter that will keep out the wind, snow and ice. Placing a few covered, insulated cat beds (just big enough to fit a cat) around a barn out of the drafts can give Kitty a choice of secure dry hiding spots to self-warm. If you suspect a cat is chilled, bring it into a heated environment for a few hours at minimum. Kittens and senior cats are most susceptible to the cold, and in a barn or other structure, hanging a light bulb a few feet above kittens inside a fireproof enclosure can warm up the air inside in order to provide reasonably comfortable temperatures. This is a method that farmers use for warming newborn piglets and chicks. Special red heat (infrared) bulbs for livestock can be purchased for this purpose. Ideally, Mom and her babies should be moved indoors if serious fall, winter or spring cold snaps occur.

Sizzler…

At the other end of the spectrum, heat stroke is an emergency seen more commonly at the hospital. Cats left inside vehicles on a warm summer day are the most common victims of overheating. A locked vehicle can easily reach 40° C (104° F) within 15 minutes, especially if there is a black interior. Cats with heavy dense coats such as Persian and Persian-type cats suffer most. Obese cats will also be more prone to heat stroke because the layer of body fat tends to soak up the heat. Young kittens and senior cats likewise have a reduced ability to process the heat load.

A cat with chronic disease such as a heart condition is less able to cope with overheating as well. Cats can die from heat stroke. Never leave a cat in your car for even a few minutes in summer because even partially opened windows may not allow for the heat to vent! Using a hair dryer on hot setting close to the cat, and being out in the very hot sun where little shade is available are also other circumstances that can precipitate overheating.

If your cat is panting with mouth open, is drooling, has dilated pupils, is weak or prone, vomiting or crying, take the temperature and begin cooling the cat. In extreme cases, seizures and unconsciousness may develop. Hopefully, you have a first aid kit for pets handy! Take your cat to the local veterinary hospital immediately--sit her on or wrap in a towel dampened with cool water for travel if the car is very hot (no car air conditioning). NOTE: A warm nose is not an accurate indicator of the cat’s body temperature.

The normal temperature for a cat is usually 100.5° to 102.5° F. A temperature of over 104° F is serious, while above that, the 106°-107° F range indicates dangerous overheating. At this level, organ damage may occur, and if not corrected, sustained high temperatures can lead to death. Use a pediatric glass thermometer or a digital thermometer with lubrication in the anus to check temperature—leave the glass thermometer in for 2 minutes, and the digital type in until it beeps. Petroleum jelly or sterile lubricating jelly will serve to lubricate the instrument and should be in the first aid kit.

Call the hospital to obtain advice and arrange for the cat to be seen immediately there. Apply cool water to the cat—the wetting of the fur will rapidly cool the cat. Use a garden hose on low flow, place kitty in a sink or tub, or just pour water on the cat. Make sure the coat is wetted right down to the skin. Offer water to drink if the cat is alert. Do not use ice water—that will over-correct the problem and lead to chilling. Monitor body temperature every 15 minutes, and stop cooling procedures and towel dry the cat when a high normal temperature is reached. If there has been serious overheating, your veterinarian may need to treat for shock.

The too hot or too cold kitty is an emergency. Don’t delay treatment and veterinary follow-up!

Disclaimer: This website is not intended to replace professional consultation, diagnosis, or treatment by a licensed veterinarian. If you require any veterinary related advice, contact your veterinarian promptly. Information at Cathealth.com is exclusively of a general reference nature. Do not disregard veterinary advice or delay treatment as a result of accessing information at this site.